The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.
John John Florence0
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John John Florence:
I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or toJohn John Florence:
You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it's like, 'Oh, wait,John John Florence:
I still get scared every time I go out. I get scared taking off; I get scared on the wave, falling,John John Florence:
You go to a contest, and it's like, 'OK, I'm here for two weeks. All my energy, time, thinking, andJohn John Florence:
I think winning the world tour events is pretty special. They're just so hard to win.John John Florence:
I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.John John Florence:
There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can takeJohn John Florence:
I want to win a world title for sure. When I'm a little bit older, I'll have a lot of time to free-John John Florence:
I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.John John Florence:
Winning a world title has always been the dream and ultimate goal.